Devil’s Advocate is a pub just off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh within a great redevelopment which includes offices, the pub and the Old Town Chambers – a brilliant place to stay if you are visiting the city and looking for a stylish five star option.
While largely a whisky bar and pub, the Devil’s Advocate is also a good place to eat. It has a fantastic, loft-like feel to it and some of the tables are on a stunning industrial-style mezzanine with bare stone walls, which is probably why. Like all good menus, the one at Devil’s Advocate is not overly extensive but includes a good mixture of choices such as chargrilled butternut squash, some tasty looking lamb and a very good quality burger. The good news is that the chips are definitely gluten free! They come in a little square bucket and are ideal for sharing – a good sign.
The other good news is that the staff are knowledgeable and relaxed about gluten free diners and that pretty much the whole menu is gluten free once any elements of bread are removed. There was no need for a separate menu and I felt very confident that the kitchen and service were going to get it right.
As it was lunch I went for the lighter option of Scrabster cod fillet with peas braised French style, baby onions, lettuce and smoked bacon. To be sociable, I also ordered chips to share. The cod was beautifully cooked and fell apart as I cut it. It had a crispy skin, which I always love, and the peas and bacon mix beneath the fish brought just the right level of saltiness.
A quick squint at my fellow diners’ meals tells me you could order the burger with no bun and still get a good hearty meal: it was packed with gherkins and salad, plus the chips. The bayleaf, lemon and garlic marinated lamb rump looked pink and tender, coming with a par-boiled egg and beans. This would also have been a good option.
The Devil’s Advocate is a relaxed and friendly place, with plenty of choices for gluten free and it is hard to fault it. There was no gluten free bread available as such, but as it was lunchtime for me this is not an issue. Though it might have been nice for soaking up the delicious cod sauce!
For the drinker, this is a great place to go. There is an extensive whisky menu, some stunning looking cocktails and a terrific wine list. I will soon be planning an evening visit to try these out as this place could definitely become a favourite haunt.